Think of it this way: if there was one place you could visit before you die where would it be? I put the question to myself & couldn’t decide. I asked around & then asked some more, until I came up with the answer. Life’s too short for such an ultimatum. I want the holidays of several lifetimes, and I want them all in this world, not the next.
It is during the Degree course at College of Military Engg, Pune I realized that probably it is the last time when many of us like-minded coursemates, hard-core bachelors will be together…..as bachelors. So, along with two of my close friends & coursemates – Madhu Nair & Amartej Singh, I decided to plan a “lifetime holiday” during our term break between two semesters. And, what better place than…. Europe. Somebody asked me, “Why Europe?”
Europe is a chameleon; its colours change rapidly. One day you can be on the cobbled streets of a medieval city, the next atop a snowcapped peak. Nowhere else greets you with such a swift succession of different languages & menu changes. Europe’s appeal lies not just in an influential, often bloody past & a largely peaceful present, but also in its mix of culture & nature. Da Vinci & Picasso masterpieces aren’t far from the countryside or popular beaches. Whether you dream of experiencing the romance of Paris, blazing own trails in the Alps or downing a few beers in Germany, this multifaceted continent can satisfy all your tastes.
So, after extensive planning & preparations (being true Army Engineers) extending over a period of 2 to 3 months, with the help of information from internet, various travel books, tour pamphlets & of course, the “bible for each traveller” – The Lonely Planet, we were ready to ‘explore’ Europe. Not to forget, winning a hard-fought & ‘almost lost’ battle for procuring Schengen Visa – this is the visa required for travelling to most of the countries in Europe (details of this ‘visa-battle’ cannot be disclosed as it contains some confidential stuff too….). We did our planning on a complete “shoe-string” budget by taking the least expensive flight, obtaining a 15-day EURAIL Pass & booking accommodation at various Youth Hostels all over Europe. As good Army Officers, we divided the responsibilities of the trip equally – I was chosen the official ‘map-reader & guide’ of the trip, Amartej, being an ace photographer, took the task of capturing our trip in his camera & Madhu, being physically strongest among us, took the responsibility of helping with the load during our ‘exploring-walks’ in all the cities.
On 12th of June, we took our flight from Bombay to Rome via Moscow. Shortly before take-off I glimpsed the pincers of city of Bombay. Soon we were scudding over a pink bed of sunrise clouds, so pretty that the pilot must have chosen his flight path just for fun. But he obviously knew his way, because eight hours of flying time & six hours of somnambular stroll through Moscow airport (straight from the Hollywood movie “The Terminal”), we were descending to another sunset on a very different land – Rome. It was half past eight in the night & to our surprise, the sun had just set & the headlights of cars were far from required. So, here we were, finally, the first of our destinations in Europe – Italy.
Rare is the traveler who isn’t smitten by Italy. Everyone loves the Italians – their quirky outspoken zest for life, and their gorgeous country & rich culture. A country of ancient history, artistic splendour, divine food & wine, and a romantic olive-grove dappled landscape, Italy hits the heart & soul fast. Natural & historic beauties aside, modern Italy is exceptionally vibrant & simmers with a unique passion.
When it comes to sightseeing, that old saying – “Roma, non basta una vita” (Rome, a lifetime is not enough) – couldn’t be more true. Next day, with some local guidance about the public transport, we visited Vatican City – the world’s smallest country. In 1929, Mussolini, under the Lateran Treaty, gave the pope full sovereignty over Vatican City. Christendom’s most famous church, St Peter’s Basilica, stands on the location where St Peter was buried. The interiors of the Basilica cannot be defined in words.
Exploring Rome is like peeling the skin of an onion, as the city reveals layer after layer of an ancient & multi-cultured history. Rome’s 2500-plus years of history have produced a veritable archive, from the remnants of ancient Rome to the artistic splendors of the Renaissance & baroque period. We explored the city of Rome by peeling all the layers, traveling either by the underground metro or by walking - be it Rome’s best-known monument – the Colosseum or the well-preserved Pantheon or the Trevi Fountain, famous for grant of wish by throwing a coin in it. And, as true budget-travellers, we survived on slices of oven-hot pizza or panini (an Italian sandwich) with beer. Whether you have a day or a month, Rome will swallow you whole, charm you to pieces, then leave you craving for more.
The same night we took the Eurail – a Trenitalia train – for Nice, the famous French Riviera beach. The train took a beautiful coastal route to reach the border-city of France next morning. The largest country in Western Europe, France stretches from the rolling hills of the north to the seemingly endless beaches of the south; from the wild coastline of Brittany to the icy crags of the Alps. It retains a confident culture with a strong sense of identity & a rich treasure house of arts.
The capital of the French Riviera, Nice is coined as the playground of the rich, famous & tanned, with Cannes, Monaco & Monte Carlo just a coin’s throw away. We spent the entire day at the beautiful Riviera beach with crystal-clear blue water. Fond memories of the famous serial – “Riviera” – were revisited. Here we discovered the importance of two very special ‘products of globalization’, which took care of our survival throughout our Europe trip – McDonalds & European Supermarket.
Next day we were in France’s “bijou extraordinaire” (extraordinary jewel) – Paris. Paris remains the benchmark for beauty, culture & class the world over. Even the most cynical traveler can’t help but be charmed by its magnificent avenues & cozy café life, its unparalleled arts scene & energetic but composed pace. Paris boasts of one of the best underground metro networks in the world. The extensive metro & RER (local trains) network helped us commute in Paris with great ease & we started to feel like locals there. For two days we toured Paris’ tourist attractions, but they just didn’t cease to finish. There’s the famous cathedral of Notre Dame, the Grand Palace, Champs Elysees – world’s most fashionable & stylish street, which radiates from Arch de Triomphe – a national icon. The paintings, sculptures & artefacts on display in one of the world’s largest collection in Louvre Museum is mesmerizing. Not to forget the most widely celebrated work of art hanging on its wall – da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. I was slightly shocked that Paris’ most famous landmark turned out to be my favourite as well. I am talking about the gigantic architectural wonder of the world – Eiffel Tower. When we reached the third level (top level) of this amazing piece of steel architect, we were totally spellbound by the view from top. Paris by night is a different city altogether. While one night we watched the world-famous Lido Show & strolled on Champs Elysees, the other night we took the dinner-cruise on River Seine.
Next morning we took one of the best & fastest trains in Europe – the Thalys – and reached Brussels, the capital of Belgium. Brussels is a calm, quiet & secretive city. It’s imposing 15th century central market square, Grand Place, tops the itinerary of sightseeing here. Of course, a visit to Brussels cannot be completed without visiting its national symbol –the Manneken Pis Fountain. Our Youth Hostel was beautifully located & we had a nice evening in its pub – the Back-packers Bar.
Next day we were in Amsterdam – Europe’s ‘Magic Centre’. ‘God created the world but the Dutch created the Netherlands’ – its an old saying. The Netherlands isn’t the most budget-conscious option, but transport is efficient & well priced, the nightlife is pumping & the Dutch are most hospitable. Amsterdam is perfect for travellers, with enough sensory delights to keep even the shortest attention spans occupied: take your pick from 17th century architecture, canals, galleries, museums – and notorious sleaze. As soon as we reached Amsterdam, we took a 7-hour day tour which took us around the picturesque Dutch countryside – lush green farms, enormous variety of windmills, green timbered houses, fishing villages and a visit to a wooden shoe making factory, a cheese farm & a diamond factory. In the night, we visited the ‘infamous’ Red Light District of Amsterdam. It’s bewildering; you’ll find tourists of all stripes gawping at the blatant display of sexual currency.
We spent the next two days in the powerhouse of central Europe – Germany. It is an accessible, popular & fascinating tourist destination. For backpackers in particular, the central location, excellent transport & hostel infrastructures, and plentiful supplies of cheap beer, strong cocktails & cutting-edge music make this an essential port of call on any European trip. Our first halt in Germany was Cologne. The justly famous cathedral – Kolner Dom – dominates the cityscape, but it’s also worth visiting this lovely city for its interesting museums & vibrant nightlife. Beer in Cologne reigns supreme. The city has more than 20 local breweries, all producing a variety called Kolsch. So after exploring the old town, streets & museums of Cologne the whole day, we settled down on a riverside café for beer & sausage.
Next day morning, we took the train which passed through the ‘fairy-tale-famous’ Black Forest – home of the cuckoo clocks. Our journey terminated at a charming town on the Necker River – Heidelberg. Its magnificent castle & medieval town are irresistible drawcards for most travellers. We spent the rest of the day exploring the imposing red-sandstone castle, strolling by the riverbank & enjoying the weather, before we caught the night-train to Austria.
Austria is not just Arnold Schwarzenegger’s homeland, but it also attracts many visitors, who are either wooed by the historic treasures of the former Habsburg empire or by the sounds of Mozart & Strauss or by sparkling mountain vistas of Alps. Our first halt in Austria was Vienna – an architecturally rich city packed with galleries & museums. We were totally amused by the stunning architecture in almost every building of Vienna – be it St Stephens Cathedral, the Imperial Palace, the Museum Quarter, the City Hall or Schloss Schonbrunn. Our journey in Austria continued from Vienna to Innsbruck. Innsbruck lies in the valley of River Inn, scenically squeezed between the northern chain of the Alps & the Tuxer mountain range to the south. The first thing we did on reaching Innsbruck was to visit Swarovski Crystal Palace, which consists of crystal-encrusted caves under a lush green ‘giant-fountain’. The evening was spent simply wandering around narrow, covered streets of Innsbruck’s old town & soaking up the atmosphere. We caught the night train to reach Zurich next morning.
The next day we were in the “Crown of Europe” – Switzerland. Chocolate, cheese & clocks; strait-laced bankers, big business & neutrality – the terms associated with this small, fiercely independent nation are likely implanted before you arrive. But beyond the stereotypes, you’ll encounter boundless adventure opportunities & some of the most exquisite natural beauty on the continent. Mountains & lakes, tinkling cowbells & alpine villages – this is a land of such breathtaking beauty it defies description. Our first excursion was to Europe’s largest waterfalls – Rhein Falls, before we reached the photogenic city of Lucerene. That day we explored the town a little, checked out few landmarks like Chapel Bridge & The Lion Monument and spent the evening by Lake Luzern. Next day morning we were off to the most-visited place in Switzerland – Mt Titlis. It is the fastest reachable glacier connected by cable cars in three stages, including the world’s first revolving cable car – “Rotair”. In the evening we caught the “Golden Pass Panoramic Train” to Interlaken which gives one of the best Swiss-countryside views.
Flanked by the stunning Lakes Thun & Brienz is ever-popular Interlaken – a great base for exploring the delights of the Jungfrau region. Our Youth Hostel was beautifully situated on the lakeside. Next morning we caught the ‘cogwheel train’ to Jungfraujoch, or ‘Top of Europe’ – as they like to call it. At 3500m, it is the highest railway station in Europe, attracting half a million visitors a year. The scenic beauty on the way is postcard-worthy, with lush green meadows merging with snowcapped mountains, flower trails, mountain streams, picturesque lakes etc. On top, as luck favoured us, we got clear weather for couple of hours & the view was indisputably spectacular. We came back to Interlaken with some fond memories of the Aletsch Glacier, the Ice Palace with some awesome ice-sculptures & snow-games of Jungfraujoch. We said goodbye to Switzerland that night & left for Venice by train.
Unlike other cities where the railway station opens into the seedier part of downtown, replete with automobile fumes, litter & touts, Venice reveals herself in her full glory as soon as you enter the city. A city that’s sinking at an alarming rate of two & a half inches per decade has no time to be coy. Come. See. Fall in love. And fall in love you will. Everybody does, Venice really is very, very charming. A confusing array of narrow alleys which suddenly open up into little squares which in turn lead into narrower alleys…..so on & so forth. Getting lost is inevitable, so enjoy! And following you faithfully along your delightful journey is the silvery green Grand Canal, which divides the city into its main six sections.
Once checking into our apartment in a narrow alley, we took up, what is the key to discovering Venice – walking. After doing alternate rounds of exploring & getting lost for some time, we reached Piazza San Marco, the biggest square in Venice. Described by Napoleon as “Europe’s Drawing Room”, the piazza is fronted by St Mark’s Basilica & lined by several cafes & ristorantes. Post lunch, we utilized the public transport of Venice – the vaporetti (water bus) to visit the neighbouring islands of Murano – home of Venetian glass, and Burano – a sleepy fishing village, renowned for its lace & colourful houses. The evenings in Venice are picture-perfect for a romantic rendezvous with your significant other. But three of us had no such inclination towards each other, so we preferred to hit the sack.
Next day morning we took the train to Pisa - its iconic tower is among Italy’s most recognizable sights. Pisans claim their ‘Field of Miracles’ is among the world’s most beautiful squares. The manicured lawns provide a gorgeous backdrop for the cathedral, baptistery & bell tower – all leaning. We spent the afternoon being mesmerized by the Leaning Tower of Pisa, before returning back to Rome. Here, our European circuit was complete after 16 days of hectic, but unforgettable travelling. From Rome, we made a day-trip to Naples – ‘the Mumbai of Italy’. Stunningly situated on the Bay of Naples & lorded over by Mt Vesuvius, Naples is gorgeous, edgy, raucous, overwhelming & above all fun. But it was not much fun for us. While returning from there, the train was delayed & by the time we reached Rome, all public transport had stopped. We spent that night at the platform-benches. It was good to be acclimatized back to our own country’s systems.
On 30th of June, after 18 wonderful days in Europe, we caught the flight back to India. It was a mixed feeling of both happiness & sadness. On one end, I was feeling sad to leave this multifaceted continent with fond memories, but on other end I was glad & excited to reach back apna desh, as I was already missing dal-chawal…… I felt that odd sense of discovery that only travel brings: I felt, in the way you can’t sitting at home & reading a book or watching television, the wonder of experiencing the place yourself. At it’s best, Europe can be compared to a great meal – varied, surprising, plentiful yet leaving you with a sense of wanting more. Like a long & complicated meal, not every taste of Europe sits well on your tongue, and like some dishes, some experiences are an acquired taste – some you hate but they come back & knock on the window-pane of your memory, asking to be let in long after you thought you’d got rid of them.